Favourite City Chicken

City chicken doesn’t actually contain chicken in the original. The dish was born in Pittsburgh and the surrounding Rust Belt during the Depression, when chicken was pricier than pork and beef. Cooks cubed cheaper meats and skewered them to mimic the look of drumsticks for a treat at the supper table.

This version updates the tradition by adding actual chicken breast cubes alongside the stewing beef and pork. The three meats alternate on the skewer and cook at different rates, but the long slow bake at 300 to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (150 to 165 degrees Celsius) gives the beef enough time to tenderize without drying out the chicken.

The egg-milk dip and flour dredge create a crisp, golden crust during the slow oven time, and the dried herbs (basil, parsley, dill) bloom into the flour as it bakes.

Pro Tips

• Cut all the meat to a uniform 1-inch cube. Mismatched sizes mean the small pieces dry out before the big ones tenderize.
• Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes first if not using metal. Three hours of slow heat will scorch dry wood.
• Tent loosely with foil for the first hour, then uncover for the last 90 minutes. This keeps the meat moist but lets the crust brown deeply.

Variations

• Skip the chicken and use only beef and pork for the most traditional version.
• Pour a cup of beef stock into the bottom of the pan and serve the pan juices as a quick gravy.
• Add a teaspoon of paprika and a half teaspoon of garlic powder to the dredge for a deeper, smokier crust.