Italian Cream Cake

Despite the name, Italian cream cake is pure American South. It’s a Texas and Louisiana bakery staple, served at weddings, holidays, and any gathering important enough to warrant three cake layers and a pound of cream cheese frosting.

The cake itself rides on two clever tricks. First, separating the eggs and folding in stiffly beaten whites at the end gives the batter a soufflé-like lift you can’t get otherwise. Second, the buttermilk does double duty, tenderizing the crumb and balancing the sweetness with a quiet tang.

The coconut and pecans are the personality. Toast the pecans before chopping if you want the deeper, butterscotch-like nuttiness that bakery versions deliver. The coconut goes in the cake and gets sprinkled across the frosted sides for that snowy, textured finish.

Let the layers cool completely before frosting. Warm cake melts cream cheese frosting into a slumping mess.

Pro Tips

• Use real butter instead of margarine for richer flavor and better browning.
• Beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl. Even a speck of yolk prevents stiff peaks.
• Bake the layers on a single oven rack with space between for even rising.
• Wrap and chill the layers for an hour before stacking. Cold cakes are easier to frost neatly.
• Frost the assembled cake an hour ahead and refrigerate so the layers settle before slicing.

Variations

• Add 1 teaspoon of almond extract to the frosting for a wedding-cake style note.
• Press toasted coconut flakes into the sides instead of leaving them plain.
• Drizzle a little bourbon over each layer before frosting for a grown-up version.