Fish in a Fish

Fish in a Fish: Salmon and Rice en Crouûte

Fish in a fish is the playful cousin of the Russian kulebiaka, the grand salmon-and-rice pastry that graced czar-era banquet tables. This home version shapes flaky pastry into an actual fish silhouette (complete with scoring for scales and a little eye), then stuffs it with seasoned rice pilaf and canned salmon. A creamy shrimp and dill sauce spoons over the top at serving. It’s theater on the dinner table.

The rice layer is not filler. Seasoned with sauteed onion, butter, and fresh parsley, it keeps the salmon moist during baking and provides a starchy counterpoint that makes each bite satisfying rather than overly rich. Converted rice is the right choice here; it holds its shape and doesn’t turn to mush.

Scoring the pastry top is where you get to have fun. Use a butter knife or a small paring knife to mark scales in an overlapping crescent pattern, add a small round dot for the eye, and cut gills with a few quick lines. Five minutes of art for a dramatic presentation.

Canned salmon is perfect for this. The texture and moisture are exactly what the pastry wants, and the small bones (left in, they’re calcium-rich and totally edible) help hold the filling together as it bakes.

Chef Tips

• Chill the pastry dough for at least 30 minutes before rolling; warm dough tears and resists holding shape.
• Brush the pastry with egg wash (one egg beaten with a tablespoon of water) for a glossy, restaurant-looking finish.
• Make a small vent hole in the top before baking so steam can escape; sealed pastries can burst dramatically.
• Serve warm, not hot; the sauce pools best over a slightly cooled pastry and slices cleaner.

Variations

• Substitute flaked cooked salmon fillet for canned for a fresher flavor.
• Add a layer of sauteed mushrooms and chopped hard-boiled egg between the rice and salmon for a true kulebiaka experience.
• Use puff pastry instead of homemade shortcrust for an even flakier, more dramatic result.