James Beard's Persimmon Bread

James Beard’s persimmon bread is one of the most-loved quick breads in American baking, and for good reason. The original recipe (from The New James Beard, 1981) became famous because it uses ripe Hachiya persimmons pureed into a silky, pudding-soft pulp that bakes up into a dense, spiced loaf unlike anything else in the quick-bread world. This bread machine version keeps the warm-spiced, fruit-forward character of the original without the creaming-and-folding routine.

The flavor is its own thing. Mace (a spice adjacent to nutmeg but brighter and more delicate) pairs with cognac to ground the sweetness of persimmon. Walnuts add crunch, and dark raisins add chewy pockets. The batter is simple but the loaf it produces tastes complex.

Ripe persimmons are a must. Look for Hachiyas that feel like water balloons in your hand, soft all the way through. Underripe Hachiyas are astringent and will ruin the bread. Use the pulp, not the skin or stem. Best served a day after baking so the flavors settle.

Chef Tips

• Use only ripe Hachiya persimmons, not Fuyu. Fuyus stay crunchy and do not break down into the necessary pulp.
• Let persimmons ripen on the counter for 1 to 2 weeks if needed. Any firm spot tells you they are not ready.
• Dust the raisins and walnuts with a tablespoon of the measured flour before adding. This keeps them from sinking to the bottom of the loaf.
• Use real cognac or good brandy. Cooking-wine substitutes taste harsh in this delicate bread.
• Wrap the cooled loaf tightly in foil and rest 24 hours before slicing. The flavors integrate and the crumb firms up.

Variations

• Swap cognac for dark rum, bourbon, or apple cider if you prefer non-brandy notes.
• Use pecans or hazelnuts in place of walnuts.
• Add 1 teaspoon of grated orange zest with the dry ingredients for a brighter, citrusy finish.