Oyster & Artichoke Soup-Gunther Preuss

Oyster and artichoke soup from chef Gunther Preuss is one of the elegant New Orleans soups that turns up on white-tablecloth menus across the South. The technique is unfussy but precise, a roux built from butter and flour after sweating garlic and onion forms the thickening base, then stock comes in to make a smooth velouté. The clever move is the two-part artichoke treatment, blanched hearts get chopped into bite-sized pieces and held back, while the leaves go into the stock to extract their flavor before getting puréed away. Likewise the oysters split into two camps, half chopped fine and cooked into the base, half sliced large and added at the very end so they barely cook through and stay plump and briny. Puréeing midway is the move that ties everything together into the velvety silk this soup is known for, and a finishing pinch of marjoram and fresh parsley keep things bright. Serve with a glass of Sancerre and crusty bread.

Chef Tips

• Sweat the onion and garlic only until soft and translucent, browning them throws off the delicate flavor balance of the soup.
• Cook the flour-butter base for at least 1 to 2 minutes to eliminate raw flour taste, longer than that and the roux darkens and changes the flavor profile.
• Add the reserved oysters at the very end and cook just 2 minutes as directed, overcooked oysters turn tough and shrunken.
• Use oysters with their liquor included, that briny juice carries most of the flavor into the soup.

Variations

• Add a splash of dry sherry or vermouth with the stock for an extra aromatic dimension.
• Stir in a quarter cup of heavy cream at the end for an even richer, more luxurious finish.
• Garnish each bowl with a swirl of fresh chive oil or a few sliced scallions for color contrast.