Buttermilk Bread

This buttermilk bread takes the slow road, and the results are worth every hour. The batter starts the night before, rising overnight into a bubbly sponge that develops a complex, tangy flavor no quick-rise method can match.

Scalding the buttermilk first is an old technique that deactivates proteins that would otherwise interfere with gluten development. Let it cool completely before adding the yeast, or you’ll kill it before the overnight rise even begins.

Three separate rises give these loaves an incredibly open, airy crumb. Each rise allows the yeast to develop more flavor compounds while building the gluten structure that gives the bread its chew. The dough gets punched down and worked between rises, which redistributes the yeast and evens out the air pockets.

Pro Tips

• Add flour gradually when building the dough the next morning. Too much too fast makes the bread dense and heavy. You want the dough just stiff enough to knead without sticking badly.
• Knead until the dough is smooth and springs back when poked. This takes 8 to 10 minutes by hand.
• Oil the loaf pans generously. Buttermilk bread sticks more than regular white bread because of the milk solids.
• The crust should be deep golden and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. If it browns too fast, tent with foil for the last 15 minutes.

Variations

• Brush the tops with melted butter right out of the oven for a soft, glossy crust.
• Add a tablespoon of honey in place of the sugar for a slightly sweeter loaf that toasts beautifully.
• Shape half the dough into dinner rolls instead of loaves. Reduce baking time to 20 to 25 minutes.