Red Tomato Preserves

Red tomato preserves are a relic from the era when nothing went to waste at the end of summer. Whole peeled tomatoes get buried in sugar overnight so the fruit slowly gives up its juice, building a syrup that cooks down into something between jam and candied fruit. Sliced lemon does double duty here: the acid keeps the spread from cloying, and the pectin in the rind helps the syrup set without commercial pectin.

Don’t rush the soak. That overnight rest is what keeps the tomatoes intact instead of collapsing into sauce. Cook slowly until the syrup turns glossy and a spoon drawn through the pot leaves a brief trail. Spoon onto biscuits, swirl into yogurt, or serve with sharp cheese on a cracker.

Pro Tips

• Use firm, ripe tomatoes with thick walls. Roma or paste varieties hold their shape better than juicy slicers.
• Scald just long enough for the skins to slip, about 30 to 45 seconds, then plunge into ice water.
• Test for doneness by chilling a spoonful on a cold plate. If it wrinkles when pushed, it’s ready.
• Process in a hot water bath for 10 minutes for shelf-stable jars, or refrigerate up to 3 weeks.

Variations

• Add a split vanilla bean or a knob of fresh ginger to the pot for warmth.
• Swap half the lemon for orange slices and a pinch of cardamom for a brighter spread.
• Stir in a splash of bourbon at the end for a grown-up biscuit topping.