Johnny Cake Muffins

Equal parts cornmeal and flour give these muffins a golden, gritty crumb that’s distinctly different from regular cornbread. Johnny cakes are a New England tradition, and baking them in muffin form gives each one a crispy crust on all sides instead of just the top and bottom.

The batter comes together fast: dry ingredients in a bowl, egg beaten with milk, then everything mixed together with the oil. No creaming, no sifting, no fancy technique. The four teaspoons of baking powder is a generous amount, which is what gives these muffins their domed tops and light, cakey interior despite the dense cornmeal.

Half a cup of sugar makes these sweeter than a savory cornbread but not as sweet as a dessert muffin. They land in that buttery, slightly sweet spot that works equally well alongside a bowl of chili as they do split and buttered with honey at breakfast.

Baking at a high 400 degrees for 20-25 minutes creates a golden-brown exterior that contrasts with the soft, tender inside. The high heat also means the muffins rise quickly and set before they can spread flat.

Kitchen Tips

• Don’t overmix the batter. Stir until the dry ingredients are just moistened. Lumps are fine. Overmixing develops gluten and produces tough, peaked muffins.
• Oil the muffin pan well. Cornmeal batters stick more aggressively than wheat-only batters.
• Fill muffin cups about two-thirds full. The generous baking powder will push them up the rest of the way.

Variations

• Jalapeño cheddar: Fold in diced jalapeños and shredded cheddar for a savory muffin that pairs with soup and stew.
• Blueberry johnny cake: Stir in a half cup of fresh blueberries for a New England breakfast muffin with a fruity twist.
• Honey butter topping: Serve warm with a whipped honey butter (equal parts soft butter and honey) for a traditional accompaniment.