Fruit Cookies #2

This is a grandma-era drop cookie, the kind of recipe scribbled on the back of a flour sack. Lard is the original shortening in baking, and it’s what gives these cookies a tender, flaky, almost pie-crust-like crumb that butter cookies can’t quite match.

The brown sugar and cinnamon combo is doing the aromatic work, with a full cup of chopped dates or raisins for chewy, caramel-sweet bursts throughout. Nuts add crunch and a little bitter edge to balance all that sweetness.

The dough is a stiff one at 5 cups of flour, so don’t be alarmed if it looks dense. That structure is what keeps the cookies from spreading thin on the pan during baking.

A “moderate oven” in old recipes means about 350°F to 400°F (175°C to 205°C). Start at 350°F for a softer cookie, 375°F (190°C) for a balanced bake, or push to 400°F if you want crisper edges. Check at 10 to 12 minutes, the tops should look set but not browned.

Kitchen Tips

• Warm the lard slightly if it’s fridge-cold, it creams better when pliable.
• Soak raisins in hot water for 10 minutes and drain, plumper fruit means juicier cookies.
• Drop teaspoon portions with real space between, these still spread a bit.
• Let cookies cool on the pan for two minutes before moving to a rack, warm cookies tear apart.

Variations

• Swap lard for butter if you want a more modern flavour, or use half and half for tender-plus-rich.
• Add a teaspoon of grated orange zest to brighten the spice blend.
• Mix dates and raisins together, or throw in a handful of dried cranberries for tartness.