Cheddar Crab Supreme

A retro chafing-dish classic that still earns its place at a brunch or buffet, this dish folds sweet crab meat and mushrooms into a velvety sharp cheddar sauce spiked with sherry. The whole thing is built in a double boiler, which is the trick to keeping it smooth.

You start with a roux of butter and flour, then whisk in chicken stock and cream until thick and glossy. The key move comes next: pull it off direct heat and melt the cheddar in over gentle hot water, since cheese turns grainy and splits if it gets too hot.

Mushrooms, a splash of sherry, and the flaked crab go in last, then it holds happily over hot water until you are ready to serve. Spooned over rice, it makes a rich, comforting main you can prep ahead and keep warm without it seizing up.

Chef Tips

• Melt the cheese over hot water, never direct high heat, so the sauce stays silky instead of turning grainy and oily.
• Fold the crab in gently at the end; overstirring shreds the delicate lumps and overcooking toughens it.
• Hold the finished dish over hot water rather than on a burner, to keep it warm without scorching the cheese sauce.
• Pick over the crab for stray shell before adding, and use the best lump crab you can for the supreme texture.

Variations

• Serve over toast points, in puff pastry shells, or with egg noodles instead of rice.
• Add a pinch of cayenne, dry mustard, or Old Bay to the sauce.
• Stir in peas or a handful of baby spinach for color.