Aunt Catherine's Italian Cookies

Aunt Catherine’s Italian Cookies are the cookies that show up at every Italian-American wedding, christening, and Christmas table. Cinnamon-and-almond dough rolls into ropes, slices into rounds, and comes out of the oven cake-soft. A bright-colored powdered sugar icing dresses them up in pastel for the holiday tray.

The recipe makes a generous batch and they store for months in tins, which is the whole point. These were never one-day cookies. They were made in big batches, iced with food coloring divided into small bowls (one for each color), and stockpiled for whatever celebration came next.

Two tablespoons of almond extract is bigger than most cookie recipes call for, and it is intentional. The almond is the signature flavor. Cinnamon adds warm depth, but almond is what makes these cookies recognizable from across the room.

Cream the shortening, margarine, and sugar until pale. Cold or under-creamed fat gives a tougher cookie that does not match the pillowy texture these are known for.

Roll the dough into ropes and slice into half-inch rounds. The cookies do not spread much. They puff slightly and stay tight to their original shape.

Pro Tips

• Use real butter in place of margarine for richer flavor. Margarine was the period-correct choice but butter tastes better today.
• Toast the chopped nuts (walnuts or almonds both work) for five minutes before adding. Toasted nuts hold their crunch and contribute deeper flavor.
• Make the icing thin enough to drizzle, not stiff to spread. A drizzle gives a more festive, traditional Italian look.
• Let the icing harden completely before stacking. Wet icing transfers between cookies and ruins the colors.

Variations

• Use anise extract in place of almond for a classic Italian Christmas cookie flavor.
• Add half a cup of mini chocolate chips for a modern, chocolate-studded twist.
• Top with rainbow nonpareils on the wet icing for the full Italian-bakery aesthetic.