Pumpkin Empanadas

These pumpkin empanadas (empanadas de calabaza) are a Mexican dessert tradition that fits onto any Thanksgiving cookie tray or fall potluck spread. Tender pastry circles wrap around spiced pumpkin filling, get sealed with a fork, brushed with egg wash, and baked until golden. A sprinkle of cinnamon sugar while still warm finishes them off.

The brandy in the dough is the detail worth noting. Alcohol evaporates during baking but tenderizes the pastry in the process, producing a flakier, more delicate crust than milk alone would create. Dark rum or bourbon work just as well if brandy is not on hand.

The filling is a streamlined pumpkin pie mixture: pumpkin puree, brown sugar, cinnamon, one egg, and vanilla. Unlike pie filling, it does not need to hold a slice, so there are no extra eggs or condensed milk to weigh it down. Just enough binder to stay inside the pastry. Makes about 18 four-inch empanadas, the kind that travel well in a cookie tin and disappear faster than you can say sobremesa.

Chef Tips

• Keep all fats (butter, shortening) cold until mixing. Cold fat cuts into the flour unevenly, creating pockets that turn into flakes during baking.
• Chill the dough disc 30 minutes minimum. Warm dough tears when you try to fold it.
• Roll the dough thin, about ⅛ inch. Thick empanadas taste doughy and never bake through evenly.
• Crimp with a fork firmly. Loose crimps pop open in the oven and leak filling.
• Cool on a rack, not the baking sheet. Pans trap steam and soften the bottom crust.

Variations

• Swap pumpkin for sweet potato puree, butternut squash, or even apple butter for different fall fillings.
• Add ¼ cup chopped pecans or raisins to the filling for extra texture.
• Deep-fry the empanadas at 350°F (175°C) for 3 to 4 minutes per side for a more traditional Mexican preparation.