Chocolate Chess Pie

Chess pie is one of the great Southern dessert mysteries. The name’s origin is debated (some say ‘it’s just pie’ said with a drawl, others say a corruption of ‘cheese’ from old English cheese pies), but the format is settled: a single-crust custard pie made from pantry staples that bakes up dense and fudgy.

This chocolate version adds unsweetened chocolate to the classic chess base. The butter and chocolate melt together over a double boiler first, which gives a smoother filling than melting either alone, and prevents the chocolate from seizing.

The filling itself is just five ingredients: butter, chocolate, sugar, eggs, salt, vanilla. No cornstarch, no flour, no milk. The eggs do all the thickening, which is what gives a true chess pie its signature texture, somewhere between a custard and a brownie.

Thirty-five minutes at 375°F (190°C) sets the filling firm enough to slice but soft enough to feel almost molten when warm. Wait until fully cool for clean slices, or serve slightly warm with whipped cream and accept the slightly messy slice.

Chef Tips

• Use a glass or ceramic double boiler if possible. Metal can transfer too much heat too fast.
• Bring the eggs to room temperature before mixing. Cold eggs cool the chocolate mixture and can cause it to seize.
• Pre-bake the pie shell for 10 minutes if you want extra-crisp bottom. A fully wet filling on raw crust can leave the bottom soggy.
• The pie sets fully as it cools. Resist cutting in early or the filling slides out.

Variations

• Stir in a teaspoon of espresso powder for a deeper chocolate flavor (the coffee won’t taste like coffee).
• Add a tablespoon of bourbon to the filling for a Southern Derby-style adult version.
• Top with toasted pecans for a chocolate-pecan-chess hybrid.