Amazing Spiced Cherry Soup

Hungarian spiced cherry soup, or meggyleves in its homeland, is the kind of starter that makes a summer dinner feel like an event. Pitted cherries simmer with red wine, a cinnamon stick, lemon rind studded with whole cloves, and a quick-cooking tapioca thickener until the broth turns deep ruby and just thick enough to coat a spoon. Served ice cold with a dollop of sour cream, it is the most refreshing first course on a hot night.

The spice infusion trick is straight from old Hungarian kitchens. Stud the strips of lemon rind with cloves, drop them in the pot, then fish out the whole bundle before serving. You get all the flavor without anyone biting into a clove. A cinnamon stick goes in for warmth and gets removed with the rinds. The clean broth becomes the canvas for the cherries to take center stage.

The magic is in the wait. Make this the night before so the flavors meld and the soup chills properly. Cold dulls flavor, so what tastes sharp at room temperature reads as balanced cold. Float a lemon slice on each portion and finish with a generous spoonful of sour cream for the traditional Hungarian presentation. Pair with a glass of off-dry Tokaji or a chilled Riesling.

Kitchen Tips

• Use fresh sour cherries if you can find them. Sweet cherries work but you may want to add a tablespoon of lemon juice for balance.
• Add the tapioca off the boil. Stirring it in at a rolling boil can cause it to gum up or settle to the bottom.
• Refrigerate at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. The wine flavor needs time to mellow into the cherry.
• Save a few perfect cherries to float on top for presentation rather than letting them all bleed into the soup during cooking.

Variations

• Use a half cup of brandy and a half cup of water in place of all-wine for a more potent version.
• Add a star anise pod to the spice infusion for a deeper, slightly licorice note.
• Use a Greek yogurt or creme fraiche swirl instead of sour cream for a brighter, tangier finish.