Neapolitan Mushroom Soup
Submitted by love2bmom
Neapolitan mushroom soup with dried porcini and fresh mushrooms, plum tomatoes, marjoram, thyme, and an egg-yolk-Parmesan liaison thickener served over toasted Italian bread.
YIELD
8 servingsPREP
25 minCOOK
50 minREADY
105 minNeapolitan mushroom soup is the Italian cousin of the French champignon classics, only with deeper, more rustic flavor. Dried porcini and a pound and a half of fresh mushrooms get cooked together, building a forest-floor base that no single mushroom variety could pull off alone. The dried porcini soaking liquid is the secret weapon. Strained through cheesecloth and reduced by half, it carries the most concentrated mushroom flavor of any kitchen technique.
Plum tomatoes, marjoram, and thyme go in next for a southern Italian seasoning rather than the herb mix northern preparations would lean on. The real Neapolitan flourish is the finish: an egg-yolk, Parmesan, and pecorino liaison whisked in at the last minute thickens the soup to a velvet body without any flour or cream. This is the same technique Italian grandmothers used for stracciatella, just with mushrooms as the canvas.
The toasted Italian bread at the bottom of each bowl is non-negotiable. It soaks up the broth and gives every spoonful a soft, crouton-like layer underneath the silky soup. Brush the toast with olive oil, top with hot soup, and shower with more grated Parmesan and fresh parsley. Pair with a glass of Falanghina or a sturdy Chianti.
Chef Tips
- Strain the porcini soaking liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel. Even a good cheesecloth lets through grit from the dried mushrooms.
- Temper the egg yolks slowly with hot soup before adding them back. Skipping this step gives you scrambled-egg flakes instead of a silky thickener.
- After adding the egg liaison, do not boil. Heat just until thickened, around 175°F (80°C). A roiling boil curdles the eggs.
- Slice the fresh mushrooms uniformly. Even slices cook evenly and the soup looks more refined.
Variations
- Stir in a half ounce of dried chanterelles with the porcini for a more complex wild-mushroom flavor.
- Swap the meat stock for chicken stock or vegetable broth for a lighter version.
- Add a tablespoon of Marsala wine with the tomatoes for a deeper, sweeter Italian note.
Ingredients
plum, fresh, peeled, seeded and chopped, or 4 canned italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped
Directions
Soak the porcini mushrooms in ½ cup of warm water for about 30 minutes.
Drain, reserving the liquid.
Rinse, dry, and chop the porcini mushrooms.
Strain the soaking liquid through washed cheese-cloth, paper towels, or a coffee filter.
Set aside.
Melt the butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large pot over low heat.
Add the onion and garlic.
Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is wilted but not browned, about 5 minutes.
Add the porcini mushrooms and cook for 8 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium and add the fresh mushrooms.
Cook until the juices run, about 10 minutes.
Add the reserved porcini soaking liquid and continue to cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, marjoram, and thyme; cook for 5 minutes.
Add the broth and simmer for 15 minutes.
While the soup is cooking, toast the bread in a 400℉ (200℃) oven until lightly browned on both sides.
Remove and brush one side with the remaining olive oil.
Use more oil if necessary.
In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks with the Parmesan chese, the pecorino romano cheese, and 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley.
Gradually whisk 1 cup of the hot soup into the egg yolks to warm them.
Reverse and slowly whisk the egg yolk mixture into the soup.
Cook, stirring constantly, over medium-low heat until the soup thickens.
Do not boil or the soup will curdle.
Place a piece of toast in each of 8 bowls.
Ladle in the hot soup and sprinkle with additonal grated parmesan cheese and chopped parsley.
Serves 8.
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