Magheritsa

Mageiritsa is the soup Greek families eat after Easter midnight mass, breaking a 40-day fast with something gentle enough for an empty stomach but rich enough to celebrate. It starts with spring lamb shin and shoulder simmered with lamb liver for about an hour, which builds a stock that’s surprisingly clean and mineral rather than gamey.

Dill, parsley, scallions and a whisper of mint are the herb quartet that defines the flavor. They all go in late, sauteed briefly so their green, grassy notes stay bright through the 15-minute final simmer.

The finish is classic Greek avgolemono: eggs beaten with fresh lemon juice, then tempered with hot broth, ladle by ladle, before going back into the pot. Temper slowly or the eggs scramble into curds and the whole texture is lost. Done right, the soup thickens into a velvety, pale yellow broth with a clean lemon tang.

Chef Tips

• Rinse the liver well before cooking to remove any blood, which keeps the broth clear.
• Temper with a whisk, not a spoon, to keep the eggs blended as the hot broth streams in.
• Never boil again once the egg-lemon goes in, a bare simmer is the upper limit.
• Leftovers thicken overnight, thin with a splash of stock when reheating, also gently.

Variations

• Substitute beef oxtail and beef liver if lamb isn’t available.
• Add a handful of baby spinach or romaine with the herbs for green color.
• Finish with a grind of black pepper and extra lemon wedges at the table.