Korean Bul Kogi

Bulgogi (or bul kogi, meaning fire meat in Korean) is one of Korea’s signature grilled dishes, thin-sliced beef soaked in a sweet-salty-nutty marinade and flame-kissed over coals or under a hot broiler. The sugar in the marinade caramelizes against high heat for that signature mahogany char and smoky-sweet crust that Korean BBQ joints are known for.

The marinade is the whole show. Soy sauce provides salt and umami, brown sugar brings the caramelizing sweetness, toasted sesame oil contributes nutty aroma, crushed garlic and black pepper add warmth, chopped green onions lend allium freshness, and a handful of sesame seeds throughout add subtle crunch.

Traditional preparation calls for 4 hours at room temperature, which lets the flavors penetrate the thin meat slices deeply. Grill quickly over hot coals, turning and basting with the marinade until the meat is just done, then pile onto a platter. Serve with steamed rice, kimchi, leaf lettuce for wrapping, and ssamjang (Korean wrap sauce) for a proper Korean BBQ spread.

Chef Tips

• Slice the beef very thin, about ⅛ inch. Partially freezing the steak for 30 minutes makes thin slicing easier.
• Use ribeye or sirloin. Tougher cuts do not tenderize fast enough for this quick marinade-and-grill method.
• Toast sesame seeds in a dry pan before adding to the marinade. Raw sesame seeds taste flat.
• Grill hot and fast. Bulgogi needs char and caramelization, which only happens over high heat.
• Baste generously with the marinade during cooking. Multiple basting passes build layers of flavor.

Variations

• Swap beef for pork belly or chicken thighs using the same marinade.
• Add 1 pureed Asian pear or apple to the marinade for traditional Korean tenderization and extra sweetness.
• Use gochujang (Korean chili paste) instead of (or in addition to) black pepper for a spicy-sweet bulgogi.