Classic Mussels Mariniere

Moules mariniere is the bistro classic that taught the world how good mussels can be with almost nothing else in the pot. Dry white wine, a sprig of parsley, scallion, garlic, bay, and thyme go in cold with scrubbed shells, and the kettle cover traps the steam that pops them open in around five minutes.

The technique that separates a good mariniere from a thin one is the reduction step. Once the mussels come out, the wine and shellfish liquor get cooked back by a third over high heat to concentrate the briny depth, then mounted with cold butter for body and shine. Salt only at the end; the mussels release plenty as they open.

Serve in deep bowls, top shells flicked off, broth poured over, parsley scattered on top. Eat straight from the half shell and use the empty pair as tongs for the next mussel.

Chef Tips

• Scrub with a stiff brush under cold water and yank any beards just before cooking, not hours ahead.
• Discard any mussel that stays open after a firm tap; it should snap shut when alive.
• After steaming, discard any that have not opened; they were dead before cooking.
• Strain the broth through a fine sieve or coffee filter to catch the inevitable grit.

Variations

• Add a chopped shallot and a splash of cream at the butter stage for moules a la creme.
• Build a Belgian frites pairing by serving with crisp French fries.
• Swap a third of the wine for pastis or Pernod for an anise-scented twist.