Torrijas

Every spring during Semana Santa, the streets of Spain fill with the scent of torrijas frying in kitchens from Madrid to Sevilla.

Slices of stale bread soak up a bath of milk spiked with cognac or rum, then get dipped in beaten egg and fried until crisp and golden on the outside, custardy and boozy on the inside.

A generous dusting of cinnamon sugar while they’re still sizzling hot is the only finishing touch they need.

With just a handful of ingredients and 30 minutes, you’ve got one of Spain’s most treasured comfort foods on your plate.

Kitchen Tips

• Stale bread is essential. Fresh bread falls apart in the milk. Day-old baguette or a thick country loaf absorbs the liquid without disintegrating.
• Soak, don’t drown. You want the bread dampened through but still holding its shape. A quick dip on each side is plenty.
• Fry in hot oil. The outside should crisp up fast so the inside stays soft. If the oil isn’t hot enough, you’ll get greasy, soggy torrijas.

Variations

• Use honey instead of cinnamon sugar for a sticky, floral finish that’s common in southern Spain.
• Swap cognac for rum as the recipe suggests, or try sweet sherry for a more Andalusian style.
• Infuse the milk with a cinnamon stick and lemon peel heated gently together, then cooled. This is the traditional Madrileño method and it makes all the difference.