Second Time Around Veal Stew Marengo Style

This second-time-around veal stew Marengo is the kind of recipe that makes Tuesday’s leftovers taste like Napoleon’s victory dinner. Veal Marengo was supposedly cobbled together for Napoleon after the Battle of Marengo with whatever was on hand. This version is true to that scrappy spirit, turning existing veal stew into a new meal in 15 minutes.

Sauteeing the mushrooms in butter first is what gives the stew a fresh layer of flavor. The orange zest and white wine join in, reducing down to concentrate the flavors before the existing stew gets added. That reduction step is what pulls the dish up from “reheated leftovers” to something genuinely different.

Green olives get tossed in at the end so their brininess wakes up the whole pot without cooking out their character. A quick simmer to warm the stew through and it’s ready to ladle over buttered noodles, rice, or mashed potatoes.

Chef Tips

• Cap-only mushrooms keep the stew cleaner. Save the stems for stock.
• Reduce the wine-tomato-zest mixture until it looks jammy, about 5 minutes. Water is the enemy of flavor.
• Add the olives at the very end, a long simmer turns them mushy and bitter.
• A sprinkle of chopped fresh parsley over the top at serving time is a must for color.

Variations

• Substitute leftover beef stew, lamb stew, or braised chicken thighs for the veal with equal success.
• Add a splash of cognac or brandy for the truly traditional Marengo finish.
• Stir in a tablespoon of capers along with the olives for extra brininess.