Salmon Vegetable Loaf

This is a vintage-style salmon loaf that uses mashed potatoes and cooked beans as the binder instead of breadcrumbs, with whipped egg whites folded in for a soufflé-like puff. The recipe goes back to Depression-era thrift cooking, when canned salmon was cheap protein and mashed potatoes were used to stretch every meal.

The whipped egg whites are what make this work. Without them, the loaf would bake into a dense fish-and-potato brick. Folded in last, they incorporate air that lifts the whole thing into a tender, almost soufflé-textured fish bake.

Use canned salmon as called for; this recipe was designed around it. Pink or red salmon both work; red salmon (sockeye) gives more color and richer flavor at a higher price. Flake the fish thoroughly and remove bones, though small soft bones are nutritious if you don’t mind their texture.

Mashed potatoes need to be hot when combined with the salmon and butter; this loosens the mixture and ensures even blending. Day-old cold mashed potatoes work but require gentle reheating first.

Bake at 400°F (200°C) until “puffy and brown," about 35 minutes. The puff comes from the egg whites; let it rise fully before pulling, and serve immediately because the puff settles as it cools.

Serve with sour pickles, tartar sauce, or tomato sauce as the recipe directs. The acidity cuts the rich loaf nicely.

Pro Tips

• Use leftover mashed potatoes from a previous dinner. The recipe is meant for leftovers; that’s part of its budget appeal.
• Whip the egg whites just to stiff peaks. Over-whipped whites turn dry and won’t fold smoothly into the heavier mixture.
• Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or parsley with the onions for a brighter, herbier flavor.
• Don’t open the oven during the first 25 minutes. The puff is fragile during the rise; opening early collapses it.

Variations

• Substitute canned tuna or cooked flaked white fish for salmon.
• Use sweet potato mash instead of regular potatoes for a sweeter, vitamin-A-rich version.
• Top with breadcrumbs and Parmesan for a crusty cheese top before baking.