Phoenix Rolls

Phoenix rolls are a triple-protein showpiece. Thin slices of chicken breast get wrapped around a piece of ham and a smear of hand-pounded shrimp paste spiked with lemongrass and green onions. Dipped in cornstarch and fried until golden, each roll has crispy edges, tender chicken, salty ham, and a fragrant, briny center.

The shrimp paste is what sets these apart from a standard chicken roulade. Pounding the shrimp in a mortar with lemongrass, scallions, salt, and pepper creates a sticky, aromatic filling that binds to the ham and chicken as it cooks. The lemongrass adds a citrusy, floral note that you can smell the moment the rolls hit the oil.

Slicing each breast into five thin fillets is important. The chicken needs to be thin enough to roll tightly around the filling without cracking or leaving gaps. If the fillets are too thick, the outside will overcook before the center is done.

The cornstarch coating fries up lighter and crispier than flour. It creates a delicate, shatteringly thin crust rather than a heavy batter.

Kitchen Tips

• Pound the shrimp paste until completely smooth. Chunky paste won’t spread evenly and the rolls won’t hold together.
• Use the flat side of a knife or a meat mallet to flatten the chicken slices if they’re uneven. Uniform thickness means even cooking.
• Fry in oil at about 350°F (175°C). Too hot and the cornstarch burns before the chicken cooks through.
• Drain on a wire rack rather than paper towels. The bottoms stay crispy instead of steaming.

Variations

• Serve with a sweet chili dipping sauce or nuoc cham (Vietnamese dipping sauce) on the side.
• Wrap the rolls in rice paper before frying for an extra-crispy shell.
• Use minced lemongrass from a tube if you can’t find fresh stalks.