Lapland Biscuits

Lapland biscuits aren’t really biscuits at all. They’re more like miniature popovers crossed with soufflés: an egg-leavened batter that rises dramatically in a hot muffin pan, then collapses into a tender cushiony cup with a crisp shell.

The egg whites are the secret structure. Beaten to stiff peaks and folded gently into the yolk-and-batter base, they trap air that expands in the oven and gives these biscuits their cloud-light interior. Deflate the whites by stirring instead of folding and you end up with dense little hockey pucks.

Beating the yolks until “thick and lemon colored” is not a poetic flourish. The color shift is the visual cue that the yolks have incorporated enough air and the proteins have started to denature, which means they will hold structure in the bake. Four to five minutes of vigorous beating gets you there.

Use well-greased muffin tins, even nonstick ones. Lapland batter is sticky and will tear if it grips the pan. A coat of softened butter is better than spray because it browns the edges crisp and gives a sweet crust.

Serve immediately. Popover-style baked goods deflate within minutes of leaving the oven; their drama is part of the eating experience.

Kitchen Tips

• Have all ingredients at room temperature; cold milk fights the egg whites.
• Don’t open the oven door during the first 20 minutes; cold air collapses the rise.
• Crack open the door for the last 2 minutes to dry the crust if your biscuits are browning fast.
• Best served straight from the oven with butter and a tart jam.

Variations

• Add a teaspoon of vanilla extract to the batter for a sweeter version.
• Dust the warm tops with powdered sugar and a squeeze of lemon for instant dessert.
• Fold in fresh berries before baking for a fruited variation.