Fluffy Gold Cake

Gold cake gets its name from the egg yolks. Four of them, no whites, which gives the crumb a rich, buttery yellow tone and a tender, fine-grained texture that white cake simply cannot match. This is the recipe to use when you have whites left over from angel food or meringue, though it stands beautifully on its own. The technique is straightforward: sift the dry ingredients together, beat in the shortening with half the milk to coat the flour and produce a tighter crumb, then add the rest of the milk, vanilla, and yolks. Cake flour is the must-have here for that signature soft, fluffy structure. All-purpose works in a pinch but you lose the cloud-light bite that defines this style of cake. Frost with chocolate, lemon curd, or a simple browned-butter glaze.

Chef Tips

• Bring the milk and egg yolks to room temperature before mixing. Cold dairy fights the shortening and creates lumps in the batter.
• Do not overmix once the yolks go in. Beat just until smooth or the cake turns dense and chewy.
• Tap the filled pans on the counter twice before baking to release big air bubbles that leave holes in the crumb.
• Cool the layers in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire racks. Frosting a warm cake melts the icing right off.

Variations

• Substitute butter for the shortening for a richer, more old-fashioned flavor.
• Add the zest of one lemon or orange to the batter for a subtle citrus lift.
• Bake as cupcakes for 18 to 20 minutes for a quick birthday option.