Belgian Endive & Ham Au Gratin

Chicons au gratin is Belgium’s answer to comfort food. Tender heads of Belgian endive get boiled until just soft, wrapped in thin slices of ham, then smothered in a cheesy bechamel and broiled until the top is golden and bubbling.

The endive needs a squeeze of lemon juice in the cooking water. This does two things: it keeps the endive from browning and it tames some of the natural bitterness. Cook them for exactly 15 minutes, just until a knife slides through the base without resistance. Overcooked endive turns mushy and can’t hold its shape inside the ham wrapper.

The bechamel is straightforward. Butter, flour, milk, and a few tablespoons of the endive cooking liquid for extra flavor. Grated cheddar or Gruyere melts into the sauce before it gets poured over the ham-wrapped endive. A second layer of cheese and breadcrumbs on top gives you that crackly gratin crust under the broiler.

Chef Tips

• Drain the boiled endive thoroughly. Squeeze them gently in a clean towel to remove excess water, or the sauce will thin out in the baking dish.
• Use Gruyere if you can get it. Its nutty, slightly sweet flavor is the traditional Belgian choice and pairs better with endive’s bitterness than cheddar.
• Watch the broiler closely. Breadcrumbs go from golden to burnt in under a minute.
• Add the sliced tomatoes after broiling, not before. They stay fresh and their acidity brightens the rich, cheesy dish.

Variations

• Wrap the endive in prosciutto instead of ham for a thinner, saltier, more intensely flavored meat layer.
• Add a teaspoon of Dijon mustard to the bechamel for a sharper, more pungent sauce.
• Make it a main course by adding sliced boiled potatoes to the bottom of the dish before arranging the wrapped endive on top.