Shrimp André

This is old-school French bistro cooking, a shrimp and mushroom saute lifted by a generous splash of dry sherry and finished with Mornay sauce, the cheesy bechamel that’s been French cooking’s secret weapon since Escoffier. Twenty minutes from start to plate.

Have the Mornay sauce ready before you start. The shrimp cooks in two minutes and waits for nothing. If your sauce isn’t already simmering on the back burner, the shrimp overcooks while you whisk butter into flour and add cheese.

Butterfly the shrimp lengthwise as instructed. Halved shrimp curl into tight little C-shapes in the pan, which cooks them evenly and lets the sauce coat more surface area than whole shrimp would. The visual is also more elegant.

Use dry sherry, not cooking sherry. Cooking sherry is loaded with salt and tastes harsh after reducing. A clean fino or amontillado gives you the nutty, slightly oxidized flavor that defines this dish.

Lemon juice goes in at the end with the sauce, not earlier. Lemon over heat too long tastes flat and dull. Adding it in the last three minutes keeps the bright citrus snap that cuts the richness of the Mornay.

Serve over rice pilaf, not plain steamed rice. The aromatic pilaf with toasted nuts and onions stands up to the rich sauce better than a soft white rice that just absorbs everything.

Pro Tips

• Use the biggest shrimp you can find. Tiny ones overcook in 30 seconds. 16/20 count or larger is right.
• Pat the shrimp completely dry before adding to the pan. Wet shrimp steam instead of sear.
• Use unsalted butter. The Mornay and sherry add plenty of salt.
• Garnish with extra fresh parsley and a lemon wedge for restaurant finish.

Variations

• Add a half cup of white wine along with the sherry for a more acidic, brighter sauce.
• Stir in a tablespoon of chopped fresh tarragon for a more aromatic French flavor.
• Swap shrimp for halved sea scallops, cooking 2 minutes total.