Portuguese Sweetbread

Portuguese sweetbread, known as massa sovada in many Azorean and mainland Portuguese households, is a pillowy yeast bread that sits somewhere between brioche and challah. Rich with eggs and butter, lightly spiced with cinnamon, and brushed with a golden egg wash before baking, this bread fills the kitchen with a warmth that’s hard to resist.

Scalding the milk before mixing it with butter and sugar is key here. It dissolves the sugar completely and melts the butter into the liquid, creating an even, smooth base that gives the dough its tender crumb. Expect a sticky dough at first. Keep kneading until it goes smooth and satiny, and resist adding extra flour. That softness is what makes the finished bread so light.

Two rises, and you can’t rush either one. The first takes a good 2 ½ to 3 hours. The second, after shaping into the round pans, another 1 ½ to 2. Plan accordingly. This is a weekend bread.

Pro Tips

• The egg wash right before baking gives the crust its signature deep golden shine. Use a light hand so the brush doesn’t deflate the risen dough.
• If your kitchen is cool, place the dough in the oven with just the light on to create a warm environment for rising.
• The bread is done when it’s golden brown and sounds hollow when you tap the bottom.
• Wraps well in plastic and freezes beautifully for up to a month.

Variations

• Add raisins to the dough during the final kneading for a fruitier version.
• Shape into a single large braided loaf instead of two rounds for a dramatic presentation.
• Swap cinnamon for lemon zest and a splash of vanilla for a citrus-forward take.