Favourite Spanakopita Peloponnisos

This is the spanakopita of the Peloponnese, the southern peninsula of Greece where Lenten cooking historically forbade dairy and eggs. The recipe is naturally vegan, relying on three alliums (onion, leek, and scallion) along with parsley and nutmeg for the deep, herbaceous flavor that cheese-laden versions get from feta. The result is lighter and arguably more interesting than the typical taverna spanakopita.

The spinach prep is critical. Wilt it briefly under a covered pan, then drain hard in a colander, pressing with a spoon. Wet spinach is the leading cause of soggy spanakopita. Squeeze it almost dry; you should be able to wring it like a sponge.

Nutmeg is the unsung hero of Greek spanakopita. Three teaspoons sounds like a lot, but it gives the filling that haunting warm undertone that ties everything together. Don’t substitute pre-ground; freshly grated nutmeg is dramatically better.

The concertina shape (gently scrunching the rolls into accordion folds before baking) is a classic Peloponnesian technique. It creates more surface area for crispness and keeps the filling from spilling out the ends.

Pro Tips

• Keep phyllo covered with a barely damp towel while you work. The sheets dry out and crack within 60 seconds of exposure.
• Olive oil between layers, not butter, keeps the recipe vegan and gives a more authentic Mediterranean flavor.
• Don’t overfill. Too much filling makes the phyllo split as you roll. Half the spinach mixture per 4-sheet roll is the right ratio.
• Brush the tops generously with oil for the deepest, crispest golden finish.

Variations

• Add 1 cup of crumbled feta and 2 beaten eggs to the filling for a traditional non-vegan version.
• Substitute Swiss chard or kale for some of the spinach for a heartier filling.
• Stir in a tablespoon of fresh dill or mint for a brighter, more aromatic version.