Andagi

Andagi are the beloved Okinawan doughnut, a fixture at Hawaiian festivals and family gatherings. Picture a doughnuts hole crossed with cake: crisp and golden on the outside, dense and lightly sweet within, with a craggy surface that cracks open as it fries.

The batter could not be simpler, but one rule guides it: fold it with your hands only until barely moist. Overmixing develops the gluten and turns andagi tough and bready instead of tender, so stop as soon as it comes together.

Frying is where patience pays. Keep the oil at a steady, moderate heat. Because andagi are dense, the center needs time to cook through, and oil that is too hot will brown the outside long before the inside sets. Drop the dough by scoop, fry slowly, and let them turn deep golden, testing with a skewer that should come out clean. As they fry, they often crack open, or smile, which is a good sign. Eat them warm.

Chef Tips

• Fold the batter just until barely moist. Overmixing makes andagi tough and bready.
• Keep the oil at a steady, moderate temperature so the dense centers cook through before the outsides burn.
• Test with a skewer like a cake. If it comes out clean, the andagi is done.

Variations

• Add a little grated lemon or orange zest to the batter for brightness.
• Roll the warm andagi in cinnamon sugar.
• Stir in a handful of black sesame seeds for a nutty, traditional twist.