Manicotti Rita Taule

This is the manicotti method that changes everything: skip the wrestling match with boiled pasta tubes and use thin homemade crepes instead. The crepe batter blends in a single blender pull, rests an hour, then cooks up in a small pan into 12 to 16 tender wrappers that roll easily around the cheese filling without a single tear.

The filling is classic Italian three-cheese: rich ricotta, grated parmesan, shredded mozzarella, bound with eggs and brightened with chopped parsley. A bath of tomato sauce on the bottom of the dish, more sauce on top, and another shower of mozzarella cheese, then 25 minutes in a moderate oven is all it takes.

Pro Tips

• Let the crepe batter rest the full hour. Skipping the rest produces tough, rubbery crepes that crack when you try to roll them. The rest hydrates the flour and relaxes the gluten.
• Use a small (6 to 7 inch) pan and just 1½ to 2 tablespoons of batter per crepe. Bigger crepes are too unwieldy to roll neatly around the filling.
• Drain the ricotta in a fine sieve for 15 to 20 minutes if it looks watery. Wet ricotta makes a soupy filling that leaks out during baking.
• Coat the bottom of the baking dish with sauce before laying down the manicotti. This prevents sticking and keeps the bottoms from drying out.

Variations

• Add 1 cup of cooked, well-drained spinach to the ricotta filling for a Florentine version.
• Use a meaty bolognese instead of plain tomato sauce for a heartier weekend dinner.
• Stir 2 tablespoons of fresh chopped basil into the filling for a brighter, more summery flavor profile.