Hungarian Goulash Soup

Before goulash became a thick stew, it was gulyas, a brothy Hungarian shepherd’s soup, and this is that soulful original. Chunks of beef chuck simmer with potatoes in a broth stained deep red and rich with paprika.

The paprika is the star, and there is a right way to use it: it gets bloomed in the hot fat with the onions for just a minute before the liquid goes in. This wakes up its flavor and color, but watch closely, because paprika scorches and turns bitter in seconds over high heat.

Browning the dried beef cubes well builds a savory backbone, while caraway, marjoram, and a little minced lemon peel give the broth its distinctive, slightly aromatic Hungarian character.

A long, slow simmer turns the beef fork-tender, then potatoes go in to soak up the broth and add heft. Serve it steaming with crusty bread for a meal in a bowl.

Chef Tips

• Bloom the paprika in the hot fat for only about a minute and off direct high heat, since it burns and turns bitter fast.
• Pat the beef cubes dry and brown them in batches for a deep, savory base.
• Add the potatoes only in the last 20 minutes so they cook through without falling apart.
• Use a good, fresh sweet Hungarian paprika; it is the heart of the dish.

Variations

• Add a diced bell pepper or a fresh hot pepper for more authenticity and heat.
• Stir in csipetke, little pinched egg noodles, near the end for a traditional touch.
• Use a hot paprika or a pinch of cayenne to dial up the spice.