Avgolemono Soup (Lemon)

Avgolemono (literally “egg-lemon” in Greek) is Greece’s great comfort soup, a dish that shows up at every Easter table and in every Greek grandmother’s flu-season arsenal. The signature is the silky texture and bright citrus punch, achieved through a classic tempering technique that turns egg yolks and lemon juice into a natural thickener.

The trick is to avoid scrambling the yolks. Never dump them straight into hot stock. Beating them first with milk and a little cornstarch creates insurance against curdling, then ladling hot stock slowly into the yolk mixture (tempering) brings them up to temperature gradually.

Long-grain rice is traditional, though orzo (Greek manestra) works beautifully too. Cook until tender but not mushy, about 25 minutes, and leave plenty of starch in the soup. That starch is part of what binds the finished texture.

Use fresh lemon juice only. A full cup for a pot this size sounds like a lot, but it’s the entire point of the dish. The acid brightens the chicken stock and lifts the yolks.

Chef Tips

• Use homemade or low-sodium chicken stock, the lemon’s acid intensifies the saltiness of canned broth.
• Whisk constantly while pouring the egg mixture in, and do it off the heat to prevent curdling.
• Don’t boil after the eggs go in. Just warm through gently, or the soup will break.
• A little grated lemon zest at the end sharpens the flavor beautifully.

Variations

• Add shredded poached chicken for a heartier main-dish soup.
• Swap rice for orzo or pastina for a different texture.
• Stir in a handful of baby spinach at the end for color and freshness.