Super Delish Raised Waffles

These are the waffles Marion Cunningham brought back into vogue in her Breakfast Book. The batter rises overnight on the counter while you sleep, and yeast does the work that buttermilk and baking powder pretend to. The result is a deeply flavored, tangy waffle with a crisp lacquered exterior and a custardy interior that no quick batter can match.

The technique is simple. Bloom the yeast in warm water, whisk in warm milk, melted butter, salt, sugar, and flour, then cover the bowl and walk away. Use a bowl twice the size you think you need. The batter will double overnight and you’ll find foam climbing up the rim by morning. Eggs and baking soda go in right before the iron heats up, which lightens the batter and sharpens the rise on the iron.

Pro Tips

• Use full-fat milk if you can. Skim works but the waffles lose some of their custardy chew.
• Let the batter sit at room temperature, not in the fridge. Cold slows the yeast to a crawl and you’ll lose the flavor development.
• Heat the waffle iron until it’s properly screaming hot before pouring. A cool iron gives you pale, soggy waffles.
• Don’t beat the batter into oblivion after the eggs go in. A gentle stir keeps the gas bubbles intact.

Variations

• Stir a teaspoon of vanilla extract into the eggs for a more bakery-leaning version.
• Replace the water with buttermilk for an even tangier waffle that tastes almost like sourdough.
• Add cornmeal to a third of the flour for a coarser, more textured waffle that holds toppings like a sponge.