St. Louis' Ham Chowder

This chowder has Midwestern comfort written all over it. Bacon sautéed in butter starts the pot, then cubed new potatoes, celery, onion, garlic, water, and milk simmer together for 30 minutes until the potatoes are tender and starting to break apart.

The dry sherry mixed with flour and water before being whisked in is a smart thickening move. The sherry adds a nutty warmth that you’d never get from a plain flour-water slurry, and it gives the chowder a subtle sophistication that separates it from basic potato soup. The flour thickens the broth into a creamy, spoonable consistency without needing heavy cream.

Using new potatoes with their skins on adds texture and holds the cubes together better during the long simmer. Peeled russets would dissolve into the broth, which might be good for a thicker soup but would lose the chunky chowder character.

Six stalks of celery sliced on the diagonal is generous, and that’s intentional. The celery keeps a mild crunch even after 30 minutes, providing texture contrast against the soft potatoes and tender bacon.

Kitchen Tips

• Brown the bacon well before adding the vegetables. Crispy bacon pieces add texture throughout the chowder.
• Whisk the sherry-flour slurry in slowly and steadily. Dumping it in creates lumps that won’t dissolve.
• Simmer uncovered so the chowder reduces and concentrates. A covered pot stays too thin.
• Freshly ground black pepper at the end makes a noticeable difference over pre-ground.

Variations

• Add a cup of diced smoked ham along with the bacon for a double-smoked meat version.
• Stir in a cup of corn kernels during the last 10 minutes for added sweetness.
• Swap the milk for cream for a richer, more indulgent bowl.