Popovers with Plum Jam

Popovers are kitchen magic: a thin, almost crepe-like batter of eggs, milk, flour, and salt that puffs into tall, hollow shells with shattering-crisp walls and soft, custardy insides.

Two things make them rise. Preheating the buttered pan so the batter hits a screaming-hot surface, and starting in a very hot oven before dropping the heat to set the structure without scorching. Resist peeking, or they collapse.

Alongside comes a homemade plum jam streaked with raspberries, cooked down with sugar and lemon juice until thick and glossy. The tart fruit cuts the buttery bread cleanly. This pairing comes from a 1987 Kansas City community cookbook.

Kitchen Tips

• Get the buttered pan blazing hot before the batter goes in; a cold pan gives you squat, dense popovers.
• Fill each cup only half to two-thirds full so there is room for the dramatic rise.
• Do not open the oven door while they bake, since a rush of cool air deflates them.
• Cook the jam until a spoonful mounds and sheets off the spoon, then ladle it into hot jars.

Variations

• Swap the plums for all raspberries, or use blackberries for a different tart jam.
• Stir grated Gruyere or Parmesan into the batter for savory popovers to serve with dinner.
• Short on time for jam? Serve with honey butter or lemon curd instead.