Piccalilli

Piccalilli is the kind of old-fashioned relish that earns a permanent spot in the fridge door, right alongside the pickles. This American version chops together green tomatoes, red and green bell peppers, onion and cabbage, then turns them into a bright, sweet-sour condiment with a warm spice undertone.

The overnight salting does important work. It draws water out of the vegetables so the finished relish stays crisp and concentrated rather than watery. In the morning you press out that liquid before the vegetables ever hit the pot.

From there it simmers in cider vinegar and brown sugar with a bag of whole cinnamon, cloves, allspice and mustard seed, until the vegetables turn glossy and the syrup thickens. Tucking the spices in a bag lets them perfume the relish, then lift right out. Spoon it over hot dogs, beside beans and sausages, or with cold meats and sharp cheese.

Kitchen Tips

• Don’t skip the overnight salt and the morning press. That’s what keeps the relish crisp and concentrated instead of watery.
• Tie the whole spices in a bag or cheesecloth as directed, so you can pull them out cleanly when it’s done.
• Simmer until the vegetables look clear and the syrup coats a spoon. Underdone piccalilli won’t keep as well.
• Seal in hot, sterilized jars for proper preserving and a long shelf life.

Variations

• Use chopped cucumber in place of, or alongside, the cabbage.
• Add a chopped chile or a pinch of turmeric for color and a little heat.
• Stir in cauliflower or green beans for a chunkier English-style piccalilli.