Krumiri

Krumiri come from Casale Monferrato in Piedmont, Italy, where the Rossi family has been baking them since 1878. The signature curved shape is said to honor the handlebar mustache of Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. Whether that origin story is true or apocryphal, the cookies themselves are a genuine Piedmontese classic: buttery, crunchy, and unmistakably yellow from cornmeal.

Cornmeal is the defining ingredient, not a quirky substitution. A full cup against 1½ cups of flour gives krumiri their characteristic grainy crunch and that deep golden color you can’t fake with egg yolks alone. Use a fine stone-ground cornmeal, not coarse polenta grind, or the cookies turn sandy and unpleasant.

Creaming the butter properly is where most home bakers fall short. Four to five full minutes of beating is needed to incorporate enough air for a light, crumbly crust. The mixture should visibly lighten in color; if it still looks yellow, keep going.

Piping gives krumiri their signature shape. Use a large star tip (about ½ inch) and pipe 3-inch curved or mustache-shaped logs. The ridges from the star tip crisp beautifully in the oven.

Pair them with espresso, a glass of Moscato d’Asti, or dunk straight into bittersweet chocolate hot chocolate, the Piedmontese way.

Chef Tips

• Use only egg yolks, never whole eggs; the extra whites would turn krumiri cakey.
• Let the dough rest 10 minutes before piping if it’s too soft.
• Don’t overbake; krumiri should be pale gold, not deeply browned.
• Store in a tin with a slice of bread to keep them at peak crisp.

Variations

• Dip one end in melted dark chocolate for krumiri al cioccolato.
• Add lemon or orange zest for a bright citrus twist.
• Replace a tablespoon of flour with finely ground hazelnuts for deeper Piedmontese character.