Boston Cream Loaf

Don’t be fooled by the name: this is no relation to the Boston cream pie. Boston cream loaf is a vintage candy-box favorite that lands somewhere between fudge and fondant. Sugar, heavy cream, and white corn syrup boil together until they hit the soft-ball stage (about 235°F / 113°C), then the syrup rests, gets beaten until it loses its gloss, and turns thick enough to hold the chopped walnuts and cherries when poured into pans.

Corn syrup is the secret to a smooth, non-grainy result. It interferes with sugar crystals as they form, keeping the texture creamy instead of sandy. Patience matters during the rest, too: pour while the syrup is still hot and you guarantee grainy candy. Wait the full 10 minutes, then beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens and turns matte. The maraschino cherries deliver bright pink flecks against the cream-colored background.

Chef Tips

• A candy thermometer is the most reliable guide. Soft-ball stage hits 235°F (113°C). Use the cold-water test if you don’t have one.
• Don’t stir during the boil. Stirring encourages crystallization and grainy candy.
• Beat by hand or with a wooden spoon, not a stand mixer. The syrup needs to cool while you beat, and a powerful mixer overworks it.
• Drain the maraschino cherries thoroughly and pat them dry. Excess liquid bleeds into the candy.

Variations

• Swap pecans in for the walnuts for a softer, sweeter nut bite.
• Stir in a teaspoon of vanilla extract along with the fruit and nuts for extra warmth.
• Skip the cherries and use chopped dried apricots for a less retro, more fruit-forward result.