Pear Conserves

This pear conserve is a throwback to the days when preserving fruit meant spending an afternoon at the stove with nothing but sugar, fruit, and patience. No pectin needed here. The natural pectin in the lemon and orange rinds, combined with the sugar, thickens the conserve as it slowly cooks down.

What makes a conserve different from a jam is the mix of fruits and the chunkier texture. Chopped pears, ground whole lemons and orange (rind and all), and raisins cook together until thick and spreadable. The citrus rind contributes a pleasant bitterness that keeps all that sugar and fruit from tasting cloying.

Stir frequently and cook slowly. This is not a recipe you can walk away from. The high sugar content means the bottom scorches fast, and burnt preserves can’t be saved. Keep the heat low and keep stirring.

Kitchen Tips

• Use firm, slightly underripe pears. They hold their shape better during the long cook. Overripe pears dissolve into mush.
• Remove all seeds from the lemons and orange before grinding. Citrus seeds are intensely bitter and will ruin the batch.
• Test thickness by spooning some onto a cold plate. It should hold its shape without running.
• Ladle into hot sterilized jars for long-term storage, or keep in the fridge for up to a month.

Variations

• Add chopped walnuts during the last few minutes of cooking for a nuttier conserve.
• Stir in a teaspoon of ground ginger or cinnamon for a spiced version.
• Use dried cranberries instead of raisins for a tarter, more colorful conserve.