Old English Sherry Cheese Puffs

A retro cocktail appetizer that walks the line between bar snack and supper-club hors d’oeuvre. The shell is classic pâte à choux (the same dough behind cream puffs and eclairs) with a tablespoon of dry sherry and a spoonful of sharp cheddar cheese spread beaten in for savory character.

Choux is all about the order. Bring the water, salt, and butter to a rolling boil, dump in the flour and sherry at once, and stir over the heat until the dough pulls cleanly from the sides of the pan. That step cooks out the starch and sets the stage for the puff. Off the heat, the eggs go in one at a time so the dough stays glossy instead of splitting.

The filling is pure old-school: softened cream cheese whipped with more sharp cheddar spread, chopped pimento-stuffed green olives, and another hit of sherry. Piped into the hollow shell, it turns each bite into a small, salty, boozy mouthful. Make the puffs a day ahead and fill them an hour before serving so the shells stay crisp.

Pro Tips

• Slit each baked puff on the side while still warm to let steam escape. Trapped steam collapses the shell into a sad gummy pellet.
• Beat the eggs in one at a time. Full incorporation after each is the whole reason the puffs rise.
• Use dry sherry (fino or manzanilla), not cream sherry. Sweet sherry throws off the savory balance.
• Fill no more than an hour before serving. The cheese mixture softens the shell over time.

Variations

• Swap the green olives for chopped chives or a teaspoon of finely minced shallot.
• Use crumbled blue cheese in place of half the cheddar spread for sharper filling.
• Bake the shells mini (half-teaspoon portions) for passed-tray-ready one-bite appetizers.