Mexican Zr Frijoles

There’s no shortcut to a real pot of frijoles, and that’s the whole point. Dried pinto beans soak overnight, then settle in for a long, low simmer with smoky salt pork or a ham hock, onion, garlic and a trio of chili powder, cumin and oregano.

After hours on gentle heat, the beans turn soft and creamy while the liquid cooks down thick, the pork lending a deep, savory backbone to every spoonful. These are the foundation beans behind so much Mexican cooking: eaten as is with rice and tortillas, or mashed and fried into refried beans the next day.

A word on salt. If you use salt pork, hold off on extra salt until the end, since the pork brings plenty on its own. And pick just one smoky meat, either the salt pork or the ham hock, never both.

Kitchen Tips

• Soak the beans overnight so they cook evenly and tenderize faster. A quick boil-and-soak works in a pinch.
• Hold the salt until the beans are nearly tender. Salt added too early can keep beans from softening, and the pork is already salty.
• Keep the simmer low and slow. A hard boil splits the skins before the centers go creamy.
• Add a little hot water if the pot threatens to dry out before the beans are done.

Variations

• Use a ham hock or smoked turkey instead of salt pork for the smoky note.
• Leave out the meat and add a glug of oil and extra cumin for a vegetarian pot.
• Mash and fry the finished beans in a little fat to turn them into refried beans.