Mary Rogers's Sourdough Biscuits

Mary Rogers’s sourdough biscuits are an old-fashioned, two-stage recipe that relies on an overnight ferment for both flavor and lift. At bedtime, half a cup of sourdough starter gets mixed with milk and a cup of flour to build a sponge. By morning, the sponge is bubbly, slightly tangy, and full of natural leavening power.

The rest of the dough comes together fast: more flour, salt, sugar if you like, lard or shortening worked in with fingertips, and a little baking soda dissolved in warm water for extra rise. After a quick knead and a 45-minute proof in the pan, the biscuits go into a moderate oven and bake up tall, soft-sided, and golden.

The overnight start gives them a depth of flavor and a tender, slightly tangy crumb you simply can’t fake with quick biscuit dough.

Pro Tips

• Keep the sponge somewhere warm but not hot. Around 70 to 75°F (21 to 24°C) gives the best fermentation; any cooler and it sluggish, any hotter and it sours too fast.
• Place biscuits close together in the pan as written. The sides protect each other as they rise, giving you tall biscuits with soft sides and crisp tops.
• Don’t overwork the dough. A few light kneads is plenty; aggressive handling toughens the crumb.
• Use lard for the most authentic, traditional flavor. Shortening works fine; butter gives a richer, more modern bite.

Variations

• Add a tablespoon of melted butter brushed across the tops in the last 5 minutes for a glossy, golden finish.
• Sprinkle the tops with flaky salt before baking for a savory, more cheese-board-friendly version.
• Split leftovers and toast them in a sandwich press as the recipe suggests, exactly the right move for day-old sourdough biscuits.