Gelato Di Mirtille

Gelato di mirtille is Italian blueberry gelato built on a proper custard base. Egg yolks and sugar get beaten until thick and pale, then gently cooked with milk in a double boiler until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.

A strip of lemon zest steeps in the custard as it cooks, adding a bright citrus note that keeps the blueberry flavor from reading flat. It’s a subtle touch, but you’d notice if it were missing.

Fresh blueberries get pureed and folded in along with softly whipped cream, giving the finished gelato a velvety density that’s richer than sorbet but lighter than American-style ice cream. The color comes out a gorgeous deep purple.

Pro Tips

• Stir the custard continuously for the full 8 minutes on the double boiler. Walk away and you’ll get scrambled eggs.
• Cool the custard quickly by setting the pot in a bowl of cold water and stirring for a couple minutes. This stops the cooking and prevents a skin from forming.
• Chill everything thoroughly before churning: custard, pureed berries, and cream. Warm mixtures don’t freeze well and the texture suffers.
• Use ripe, in-season blueberries for the best flavor and color. Frozen berries work in a pinch but will be less vibrant.

Variations

• Mixed berry: Replace half the blueberries with raspberries or blackberries for a more complex fruit flavor.
• Honey blueberry: Swap half the sugar for wildflower honey in the custard base for a floral sweetness.