Cheese Straws

Cheese straws are the pride of Southern cocktail parties, a tradition that runs from Charleston tea rooms to Kentucky Derby spreads. The formula is simple but exacting: sharp aged cheddar, flour, fat, and just enough cayenne to bite back.

Use the oldest, sharpest cheddar you can find. Mild cheddar yields bland, soft straws. Well-aged cheese has less moisture and more punch, which gives the finished straws their crackling snap and unmistakable savory depth.

Chilling the dough before rolling is a must. Warm dough tears under the rolling pin and bakes up greasy as the fat weeps out. Twenty minutes in the fridge firms the dough so it rolls cleanly and holds the ridged fork marks that are the signature visual of a proper cheese straw.

Watch the oven closely in the last 2 minutes. These should look dry and matte but stay pale gold. Brown edges mean they are overbaked and the cheese will taste bitter.

Pro Tips

• Grate cheese fine on a microplane or the small side of a box grater, uneven chunks leave pockets in the dough.
• Rest dough again briefly after rolling if it feels warm, cold dough holds ridges better.
• Use an offset spatula to lift cut straws to the baking sheet without stretching them.
• Store in an airtight tin at room temperature for a week or freeze in stacks for up to 3 months.

Variations

• Add a half teaspoon of dry mustard powder and a pinch of paprika for deeper Southern flavor.
• Top with sesame or poppy seeds before baking for crunch.
• Substitute half the cheddar with grated Parmesan for a more complex cheesy note.