Smoked Carnitas

This is what happens when a pitmaster marries a Michoacán abuela. Classic Mexican carnitas are traditionally braised in their own fat (confit style) until tender and crispy, but this version starts with a 3-hour smoke over your favorite wood before the braise begins. The result is carnitas with a smoky backbone that straight-up stovetop versions cannot touch.

The smoke does essential work. Three hours at low temperature gets a deep red bark on the pork shoulder and pushes smoke flavor into the fat layers. That smoke flavor is what carries through the long braise and distinguishes these carnitas from every other taqueria-style version you’ve had.

Breaking up the pork while stirring is the technique that separates good carnitas from great ones. As the water cooks down, those crushed bits of smoked pork lose their moisture and start frying in the rendered fat, creating the crispy bark-edged bits (the chicharrones style shreds) that are the whole point of carnitas.

Stop cooking when the liquid is gone but the pork is still moist. Push it longer and you cross from glossy and tender into dry and stringy. The right texture is shreddable but juicy with crispy caramelized edges.

Four tablespoons of hot chili (dried and crushed, or fresh minced) brings proper heat. Adjust to taste, but don’t skip the chilies; carnitas without heat feels incomplete.

Pile on warm corn tortillas with chopped onion, cilantro, lime, and salsa verde.

Pro Tips

• Use pork shoulder (Boston butt) with the fat cap intact; lean pork turns to sawdust.
• Hickory, oak, or apple wood all work well for the smoke.
• Toast and grind whole cumin seeds yourself; it’s dramatically better than pre-ground.
• Save any leftover fat for frying eggs or refried beans.

Variations

• Add a can of Mexican coke to the braise for sweeter, caramelized edges.
• Squeeze in an orange half with peel during the braise for citrus brightness.
• Use a dried chile blend (ancho, guajillo, chipotle) instead of plain hot chilies.