Julia's Manicotti

Julia’s manicotti is a proper Italian-American Sunday supper bake, and what makes it stand out from the dozen other manicotti recipes online is the sauce. Most red sauces lean on two or three herbs. This one goes all in with basil, oregano, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, bay, parsley, red pepper flakes and a dash of cayenne, giving the tomato base real personality and warmth. A splash of red wine adds depth a plain jarred sauce can’t touch.

The filling is four cheeses deep: ricotta for creaminess, mozzarella for stretch, and both Parmesan and Romano for salty, sharp edges. An egg binds everything and a clove of fresh garlic stirred in keeps things punchy. A big handful of fresh parsley lifts what could otherwise be a heavy bite.

A careful point here: cook the manicotti shells just al dente. They finish softening in the oven under the sauce, and overcooked shells tear while you stuff them.

Chef Tips

• Use a piping bag or a zip-top bag with the corner snipped off to fill the shells cleanly, a spoon takes triple the time and tears the pasta
• Let the tomato sauce simmer the full 30 minutes, shorter simmers taste raw and tinny
• Cover the bottom of the pan with sauce before placing shells, this prevents the pasta from sticking and drying out
• Reserve a handful of mozzarella for the top, it browns into gorgeous golden patches under the broiler
• Let the bake rest five minutes before serving so the filling sets and slices cleanly

Variations

• Add a layer of sauteed spinach or cooked Italian sausage to the filling for a heartier version
• Sub crepes for pasta shells for a more traditional Italian-style crespelle
• Finish with a drizzle of pesto over the baked dish for a fresh green note