Ham Chowder

A good chowder is humble comfort, and this one builds big flavor from a short list. It starts where the best soups do: with bacon browned in butter, rendering its smoky fat to flavor everything that follows.

In go onion, celery, garlic and cubed new potatoes, skins left on for rustic texture, simmered in milk and water until the potatoes are tender and just starting to break down.

A splash of dry sherry is the grown-up touch here, lending a nutty depth you would not expect from a simple potato soup.

To thicken, whisk flour into a little water and sherry and stir it in, simmering until the chowder turns velvety. It is a gentler method than a roux and keeps things from getting heavy. Finish with plenty of fresh black pepper.

Kitchen Tips

• Whisk the flour into cold liquid until smooth before adding it, or the chowder will turn lumpy.
• Simmer uncovered as directed. It reduces the liquid and concentrates the flavor while the potatoes thicken the broth.
• Use cream for a richer chowder or yogurt for a lighter, tangier one. Both work in place of the milk.

Variations

• Add diced ham or smoked sausage for an even meatier bowl.
• Stir in corn kernels or a handful of shredded cheddar in the last few minutes.
• Top with chopped chives or extra crisp bacon for crunch.