Singing Hinney

Singing hinny is a beloved Northumbrian griddle cake from the North East of England, named for the hissing, sizzling sound it makes as the lard fries in the hot pan. The name “hinny” is a regional term of endearment, and these flat cakes were traditionally cooked over an open hearth on a girdle (the British word for griddle).

This is no quick scone. The flour, lard, currants and a barely-wet dough come together cold, then cook slowly on a low heat for nearly half an hour. Patience is required. Rush the heat and the outside burns before the middle cooks. The 15-minute first side is what builds the signature crisp golden crust.

The rub-in method is key. Use cold lard cut into pieces and work it into the flour with fingertips until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs. Warm fat melts and turns the cake greasy. The cold pockets of lard create steam during cooking, which gives the hinny its tender, almost flaky interior under the crusty exterior.

Kitchen Tips

• Use a heavy cast iron skillet or proper griddle. Thin pans heat unevenly and scorch one spot of the hinny while leaving the rest pale.
• Don’t move the hinny once it’s in the pan. Let it set fully before flipping with a wide fish slice in one confident motion.
• Split and butter while it’s still hot. The steam softens the bread and the butter melts into the warm crumb. Cold hinny is dry hinny.

Variations

• Swap currants for raisins, sultanas, or chopped dried apricots.
• Add 1 teaspoon of mixed spice or cinnamon for a warmer flavor.
• Use half whole wheat flour for a nuttier, more rustic version.