Panforte

Panforte is the legendary spiced fruit-and-nut cake of Siena, a thick, chewy slab that has survived essentially unchanged since the 13th century. The name translates as “strong bread” for the punchy mix of cocoa, cinnamon, coriander, allspice, and nutmeg that flavors a base of toasted hazelnuts and almonds bound by a hot honey-sugar caramel.

The critical step is the soft-ball stage of the syrup. Pulling it off the heat at 234 to 240°F (112 to 116°C) is what gives panforte its signature texture: dense and chewy without being hard. Undercook the syrup and the cake stays sticky; overcook it and the slab turns rock hard. A candy thermometer is non-skippable here.

Pro Tips

• Toast the nuts deep amber, not just blonde. Underdeveloped nuts get lost in the spice mixture.
• Wet your fingertips with cold water before pressing the mixture into the pans. The honey is unforgivingly sticky and dry hands tear the surface.
• Foil-line and grease aggressively. Panforte sticks to anything it touches.
• Cut wedges with a long sharp knife while the cake is at room temperature. Cold panforte cracks and warm panforte tears.

Variations

• Dust the cooled wedges generously with powdered sugar for the traditional Sienese finish.
• Swap candied cherries for candied orange peel or citron for a more authentically old-world flavor.
• Add a pinch of black pepper and ground clove for the spicier panforte nero variation.