Onions in Sweet & Sour Sauce

This is agrodolce, the Italian sweet-and-sour tradition, applied to whole small onions. Sixteen peeled white onions sit snugly in a pot and braise in a mixture of white wine, honey, vinegar, and a dash of coriander until the liquid reduces into a glossy, tangy-sweet glaze that coats each one.

The half-and-half ratio of water to vinegar for the braising liquid is the key balance. Too much vinegar and the onions taste pickled. Too little and you lose that characteristic sour bite that makes agrodolce work. The honey softens the acidity while the white wine adds a subtle fruitiness underneath.

Arranging the onions in a single, snug layer is important. They need to be half-submerged in the liquid, not swimming in it. As the sauce reduces, it concentrates around the onions and creates that sticky, caramelized coating. If there’s too much liquid, you get boiled onions instead of glazed ones.

Chef Tips

• Use small, uniform onions so they cook at the same rate. Pearl onions or cipollini work best.
• Keep the lid on tight. The covered simmer cooks the onions through before the liquid evaporates too quickly.
• The sauce is done when it’s thick enough to coat a spoon and the onions look glossy. Don’t reduce it to a paste.
• Serve warm or at room temperature. These are traditional as part of an Italian antipasto spread.

Variations

• Add 2 tablespoons of tomato paste to the braising liquid for a reddish, slightly richer agrodolce.
• Swap coriander for a sprig of fresh rosemary for a more Tuscan-leaning flavor.
• Use balsamic vinegar instead of white wine vinegar for a darker, sweeter sauce.